Technological process of woven fabric
Woven fabric
Traditionally, it is a cloth woven by shuttles driving weft yarns back and forth in warp yarns. Generally, there are obvious edge fabrics on both sides, and both the grey cloth and the finished cloth are flat. However, the grey fabric of knitted fabric is often cylindrical, and the finished product becomes flat after being opened and shaped.
The concept of yarn count density
Fabrics vary widely. How do you represent different specifications? Yarn count density is an important index.
Yarn count: Generally, it is English count. English count calculation of cotton yarn: conditioned weight's one-pound cotton yarn has several 840 yards, which are called several English counts. For example, if there are 32 840 yards, it is called 32 English counts, and so on. The higher the count, the thinner the yarn. English branch is generally indicated by “s”.
Density: The number of warp and weft yarns per inch is called density. We have a density mirror, the size in the box is “1”.
For example, 20x16/128x60means that the warp yarn is the 20s, and the weft yarn is 16s. There are 128 warp yarns and 68 weft yarns per inch. This is only the most basic fabric, and there are many more complicated fabrics. The expression method of yarn count density is correspondingly more complicated.
Concepts of various organizational structures
Besides the yarn count density, there is another important index to know what this cloth is like, that is, the weave structure of this cloth. Generally speaking, there are mainly the following:
1. Plain weave fabric, in which warp and weft yarns are interwoven from top to bottom, is the most basic weaving method. The thinner and lighter plain fabric is called poplin, and the thicker plain fabric is called canvas.
2. Twill fabric, there are three kinds in common, 2/1, 3/1, and2/2. The ups and downs refer to the ups and downs of warp. 3/1 means that the warp yarn floats above three weft yarns, sinks below one weft yarn, and then floats above three weft a yarns. This kind of fabric is called yarn card or thread card.
3. Satin fabrics, generally 4/1 and 5/3, are more complicated, as long as we know the characteristics of this kind of fabric with strong surface gloss. There is more tribute.
4. Jacquard type: it is completed by a more complex loom, and most of them are small jacquard. For example, squares, wick strips, herringbone diagonal strips, and satin strips are all small jacquard patterns.
5. Velvet plants, mainly corduroy, and velveteen. The main feature of corduroy is that weft density is much higher than warp density. Because the weft yarns become pile yarns after opening.
Different dying and finishing methods
Generally speaking, there are two dyeing and finishing methods for woven fabrics, one is dyeing and the other is yarn-dyed.
Dyeing refers to weaving grey cloth first, then sending it to the dyeing factory, and obtaining colored cloth by desizing, singeing, boiling, mercerizing, (sanding) dyeing, setting, preshrinking, and softening. Most of the printing processes are the same, mainly changing the dyeing process to printing.
Yarn-dyed refers to dyeing the yarn before warping, sizing, weaving, and finishing to obtain the finished cloth. Yarn-dyed fabrics are mainly plaid and striped(plaid fabric, check fabric, tartan plaid fabric)
Yarn-dyed fabrics need prenatal fabric design, dye yarns in different
colors.
There are four kinds of dyes, the most important of which are reactive dyed and vat-dyed. Among them, the color fastness of vat dyed is the best.
Paint, which has a strong fading color after washing, is often used by guests who pursue a sense of obsolescence after washing. The color fastness is very poor before washing, but fair after washing.
Sulfur dyes, basically eliminated, are used for the black color of corduroy, with the poor color fastness and strong corrosion effect on cotton fibers. The tear strength is poor after a long time.
Several main test indexes
It can be divided into two categories: physical index and colorfastness.
Physical indicators include yarn count density, weight, tensile strength, tear strength, PH, shrinkage, composition, flame retardant, and so on.
Colorfastness includes: washing fading, staining, rubbing, light, chlorine bleaching, non-chlorine bleaching, actual washing discoloration, etc.
Composition of price
Dyed printed fabric: grey fabric price+finished product price of dyeing and finishing blank, grey fabric price consists of yarn raw material cost plus weaving labor cost.
Color weaving: yarn raw material price+dyeing cost+weaving cost+finishing cost.
Finally, choosing an excellent fabric manufacturer can reduce the risk in the production process.